The Kill Floor

Fall is the busiest time of year at the slaughterhouse. Farmers are anxious to get their summer’s work into the freezer before winter. Most days, even Saturdays now, are spent cutting away at a very full meat locker. The work is endless. There is always more coming in the back than going out the front. And because everyone hates my music, we mostly work silently. This lets me — forces me — to do a lot of thinking, which takes many forms. Sometimes my thought process is completely chaotic and random; for example, I might sing a song about what I am doing: Flank, Flank, Flankity, Flank Flank. At other times, I am more like a Chinese adolescent issuing a self-criticism before chairman Mao, “I swear, oh Great One, one of these days I am going to get up at 6:30 and do yoga.”

I was especially nervous about killing my first cow because I spend so much time with my thoughts.

Yup, that’s right, I did it. And to tell the story, I’m gonna make like Dane Cook and “Tarantino” it. When it was all said and done, I told Roger that, “My head was okay with it, but my hands are still shaking…[nervous laugh].”

So about five minutes before it was my time to “do it,” I was told to imagine a straight line across the top of the cow’s eyebrow, then go an inch and a half down from the middle, and that’s where you want to stun it. For some reason, “stun” is the term used to describe firing a 4-inch steel bolt through an animal’s skull.

Semantics aside, this was my only training before it was go time. A few weeks ago, I watched Shadic, the kill floor veteran, stun a veal. The cow was standing there, Sahdic walked up, pushed the bolt gun against its head, and pulled the trigger. This was the first time I ever saw a dying cow have any emotion. It looked completely surprised, like, “huh?”. It slowly folded its legs, then kneeled down as it it were going to sleep. It was so peaceful. Just “huh?,” and then it sat down. That was it.

Now as for my de-flowering: as it turns out, the third time’s the charm. My first shot was too low and the hollow sound told me I hit the nasal passage. The second shot was too far away; since it’s a4-inch bolt, you have to be pressed directly against the animal’s skull. By this point, I felt the urgency to drop the thing, but I couldn’t get a clear shot. Also, the cow knew what was up. Nevertheless, on the third try, it fell to the ground. Its legs stiffened straight out and vibrated. Snot shot from its nose. And it pissed itself. That was that.

(Pete, another kill-floor man, gave it an extra stun just to make sure, but in future retellings of this story, I will probably leave that part out.)

Once the animal was dead on the ground, I went back into the processing room. Roger looked over at me and asked how I was. I told him, “My head is okay with it, but my hands are still shaking.” He laughed and we went back to work.

Before I walked onto the kill floor, I was mentally prepared for the whole incident. I eat meat. I cut up meat for a living. I should be okay with killing it too. I wasn’t going to let this task have power over me. It was something that I was going to accomplish. To put it into skiing terms, it was like floating a three over a 40’ table. The experience was intense.

Watching that cow die in what I precieved as being a painful manner was hard, but my biggest concern was that meat might be tainted. This was after all my cow. I purchased it from a farmer in Western New York for about $1200. It’s weird to share the price, but I think it’s good to know that cows are really fucking expensive and I really didn’t want to mess this one up. But the guys at work just laughed when I suggested that the meat might be affected by the animal’s prolonged death: “That was nothing,” they said.

I bought the cow because, starting next week, I will be officially selling Natural meat. The plan is to have a business that requires minimal investment. For now, I see the investment being about $1600, but with the amount of meat I will receive, it should be easy to make a profit. And if it doesn’t, well then, I have a freezer full of delicious meat.

The whole idea can be credited to my silent work time. I’ve planned it all out and talked it over with the old-timers I work with, and I am pretty excited about the whole thing. So let me use this moment to announce the launch of Freezer Pleaser. If you want to enjoy the taste of a great steak, but without that guilty, factory-farm aftertaste, then it’s time to let the Freezer Pleaser, please your freezer!

Enough of the shameless self-promotion. I gotta go kill your next meal.

8 Comments

  1. Adam
    Posted October 6, 2006 at 12:38 pm | Permalink

    so the way that a cow is killed in the 21ST CENTURY is by placing a bolt gun up to its forehead (execution style) and just blowing it away. You didn’t have to “tarantino” the story - the story is “tarantino” enough.

    I’m not sure how I thought cows were killed….but that certainly wasn’t my expectation.

    Where’s PETA when you need em?

  2. leigh
    Posted October 6, 2006 at 02:35 pm | Permalink

    Is this slaughtering business more of a case study to help you write a book? Or a blue-collar job so that when your older you can tell clients (after a few cocktails in a Manhattan bistro while staring into your martini and swirling it around), “You know, I used to kill cows up there in V-T”? Or are you really planning on making a living as a butcher?

    I’m interested. I like this piece…a lot. What’s your story, man?

  3. Shawn
    Posted October 6, 2006 at 04:38 pm | Permalink

    pass the A1! you da man! Kyle, buy me a nice rib eye…and bring it home next time you come…I think you should sell Stumpy’s BrandedBull Steak Sauce at the Freezer Pleaser…

  4. jamie
    Posted October 6, 2006 at 05:59 pm | Permalink

    adam, i know it sounds a bit bizarre, but remember that the 20th century method was to crack it in the dome with a sledge….leigh as for my story….well, i was a vegatarian for about 2 years and once i started to eat meat i wanted to learn more about it…so i took a job at the S-house during the summer of 05, after graduation they asked me to come back and learn to cut so i did…i dont know what is going to come of it…if nothing else my experiences will make good stories…as for a book, that would be cool, not sure of a thesis yet, but i like the idea…i really dont know what will come of it, i could see myself doing a small custom meat shop that was only open a few days a week/ grill imporium something like that, but as a trained butcher i can (although i am not) be making 30/hr which is pretty sweet

  5. Posted October 6, 2006 at 06:00 pm | Permalink

    them shits is grody to max bra…

  6. Dave
    Posted October 6, 2006 at 08:59 pm | Permalink

    I don’t usually like to admit this, but I grew up on a cattle farm. I’ve watched hundreds of cows “put down” by the local butcher. He used a shotgun instead of a bolt gun but he was a dead eye shot and always hit ‘em right between the eyes. He always explained to me that it was the humane thing to do because when you hit them there it completely deadens all their senses and they are not able to feel pain between the point you shoot them and the point where they die. This may have been to make a kid feel better but he was very convincing so I always believed him.

    For anyone who hasn’t tried fresh natural red meat, it makes the stuff in the grocery store taste like rubber.

  7. Amber
    Posted October 7, 2006 at 09:04 am | Permalink

    What a beautiful piece. (BTW, I never heard about the 4th bolt.) I appreciate the honesty in the telling of this story, and the way you’ve written it is great: clean, engaging and even elegant. I find it slightly bizzare to say I thoroughally enjoyed reading it, since it made me wince a little. Iloveit.

  8. Posted October 9, 2006 at 02:17 pm | Permalink

    Adam, just to clarify the bolt that is fired is a ‘captive’ bolt. IE it doesn’t leave the gun, traveling only into the cow and then ready for another shot.

    Kind of like a jackhammer.

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